
I love Threads magazine. When I first started reading it, the magazine covered knitting as well as sewing techniques, and it’s certainly changed over the years! I’ve always spent a lot of time in bookstores, and I could not wait for a new issue – I’d curl up, and read, dreaming of all of the perfectly sewn clothes, and look at all the ads….for someone who loves to sew, I truly think it’s the best.
My mother taught me to sew, and is a wonderful sewist in her own right. When I wrote my first article, we went to the bookstore, and had our picture taken, holding “my” issue, and that was such a thrill for both of us! She’s 82, and still sews, and she always encouraged me to “do my own thing” and she really encouraged me to accept that I was creative and “weird” and that was OK.
Writing for a magazine is NOT at all what I thought it would be. It’s really a much more collaborative process than I thought it would be, even though “my” name is on the article, so many people affect it – the art director, the photographer, the graphic artist – and the editor! I’m actually AMAZED anything makes it to a printed page – it’s so much more complicated than you’d ever think. You submit an idea, or they assign you a topic. You figure out your angle on the subject, you send and outline, you talk with the editor, you make changes…write some more….send off another copy. You get to look at a final proof, and make changes before they print it. Threads is a technique magazine, so you have to make samples, you often make a garment….. You can’t use any old color, you have to use a color from a specific palette of colors, chosen for that issue – it’s all very specific. The first article I worked on was on beading and embellishing – and in that case, I worked from an “inspiration piece” a photo of a historic garment, with a beaded lapel. My goal, was to use modern materials to “hurry up” the labor intensive process. I tend to worry, and fuss, and over-work everything, and when I finally sent it off – it was such a relief. Then you wait to see your issue at a newsstand, or fabric store……I am ALWAYS at the fabric store, and I usually am in the middle of a project….making a run for supplies….and I look like hell. One day….I’m pushing my cart by the periodical stand….and !!!!!! “my” issue. I took one out, and read the article, then walked up to the nearest clerk, with the magazine…..and said “If had ANY taste or class, I wouldn’t do this…but this is ME in here!” She looked at the very flattering photo of me in the magazine, and said “You look way better in there” This was true.
A few months later, I did another article on “Build a Better Bosom”, which was all about working with breasts. I know ALL about breasts, as I worked for a couple of years, sewing Playboy Bunny costumes. Yes, there was a Playboy Club in Omaha, for a few years in the early 80’s, and I PROMISE to “write and tell” in a future article. It was a very strange job, but I have to say, that’s where I got my Ph.DD. I’ve always said, “I’m known for my breasts” Not MY breasts per se, but the ones I create. If you’re interested in any of these articles you can buy back copies of Threads at www.Threads.com I’ve always felt that much time is spent on sewing technique, and not much on fitting, or working on the figure with padding or undergarments BEFORE you construct your garment. It makes a huge difference. For the record, my working title was “Tips for Tits” but I was the only one who liked that one.
Currently, in issue 130, a new article: “The Art Dart!” I really believe in darts, as they really sculpt the garment, and can make anyone look shapely. I’m often asked how I think up creative ideas, and I’ll tell you: I try to think So, I’m thinking about darts, and the obvious creative ideas: sewing darts on the outside of the garment, splitting darts, etc, so I make samples, and play with darts on scraps of fabric. When I’ve exhausted all that I know, I “ask” myself to “remember” a new idea. When I tell my brain to “remember” it assumes that the idea or concept ALREADY exists, that I already A day or so later, I always get an image. In this case, it was a pie with a slice removed. This made perfect sense to me. If you remove the actual “dart” (the ‘piece of pie”) and then bind the edges, and sew the seam together every inch or so, with beads…..an Art Dart! I’m always interested in the creative process, and maybe this will help you find your own. Another way to get ideas, is to try to solve issues that bother you. I’ve never liked how darts stop abruptly. I thought it would be wonderful if the line of the dart kept on going across the jacket or blouse front – the beginning of a dart, is sewn deep, to give shape to the garment, and if you keep on sewing, after you pass the tip of the dart…..just 1/16th of an inch seam, it won’t add any shape to the garment, but it will make a decorative line on the right side of the jacket or blouse.
I’m not a patternmaker. I’m a fabric sculptor. I hack out a chunk of fabric, mark some lines on it, and then put it on a mannequin. I draped the jacket and the skirt, but the blouse was from an existing Threads pattern, put out by Simplicity. I made muslins of the garments, and sent them to Threads, with the samples of darts. Then fabric was chosen, and I spent a whole lot of time on them, as there are no instructions when you are creating techniques! The bound dart, was tricky, as the skirt had 11 darts in it, and each dart had a facing and a backing, and was interfaced…..that means 33 pieces JUST FOR THE DARTS. I did all the darts, and the binding was about 1/4 of an inch – and I put a tan under layer, but you really did not notice they were darts….so I ripped it all out, and re-did it, making the dart binding 1/8 of an inch….still a light backing. I just was not pleased, so I tore them apart again, and this time put a DARK backing behind them, as that made the crystals stand out much more – and all that interfacing and binding seam allowance, really gave substance and support to the waist of the skirt. It’s almost a corset type skirt. I really do like that skirt, I just did not put in the right kind of lining – it’s quite pegged at the bottom, I should have flat lined the bottom edge, and put in a short lining to the top of the dart. I could make a perfect skirt now, once that I’ve made one!
It’s such a thrill to see something you’ve made in a magazine – it seems so unreal that I ever even touched it, let alone sewed it!
The only thing disappointing about writing is that I really thought I’d feel better about myself, as though I’d “done something” and I CAN tell you THAT did not happen. I feel the same, I’m happy to think I give ideas to other sewists, that may take them and make their own wonderful creations. That makes me happy
Threads is always interested in new authors, and new ideas. Look in the magazine or on their website for information.
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